What would the full price to get certified to scuba dive, and get slightly used equipment?
I’m 14 and need to learn how, and can’t buy new equipment;i know what i need, but just not the price
Like anything you buy, shop around. If there are a couple of dive shops in your area they will often have specials on their training courses to drum up business.
Expect to pay between 200-300 dollars for an open water certification as a rule. Yup…there’s a 100 dollar difference sometimes simply because those dive shops are competing for your dollar.
If there’s only one dive shop in your area, prices are usually fixed in the 250- 300 dollar range. They don’t have competition.
As for gear, it can range considerably. Much depends on what sort of diving you’ll do. A cold water diver spends more on gear than a warm water one. Suits cost more, regulators cost more, hoods and gloves are an extra expense to name just some. Check into each dive shop. You’ll find that many offer used gear that they either used for training or it’s club member gear that’s up for consignment. You can often get good deals on it and since it’s from a dive shop, it will have been inspected and serviced before sale. Buying online is an option, yes, but you never know what you’ll actually get. It may cost you more in repairs to get it ready to dive than you saved by buying online. Don’t forget…much of this gear is meant to keep you alive. It’s not something you go cheap on so buy the best you can afford.
Some stuff you want new, not used. You’ll need to buy your own mask fins and snorkel. You can’t even start the course without it. This stuff needs to fit YOU..not somebody else so try on as many different masks and fins as you can before purchase. Like everything else in scuba gear, if it doesn’t fit properly, it’s no good to you and can even be possibly hazardous.
So, let’s break it down with what you need as a bare bones dive kit.
Mask: 80-150 bucks
Snorkel: 30-80 bucks
Fins: 90-300 bucks
Exposure protection: ( your wet suit) can range from 100-750 bucks depending on if it’s used and it’s thickness and features. You could always rent a suit but that’s up to you. There’s an old saying amongst divers. " Show me someone that says they haven’t peed in their suit and I’ll show you a liar." When ya gotta go…ya gotta go. Someone will probably have peed in that suit if it’s used or rented. Your choice. Eventually you will do it too.
That’s it. Everything else you can rent once you’re certified.
If you wanted to own it all then this is what you’re looking at in addition to the above:
Lead weight: Varies and depends if it’s a soft pouch or belted lead. 40-200 bucks
BC: The sky’s the limit. 200 bucks to 2 grand.
Hood: 40 bucks
Gloves: 40 bucks
Alum 80 tank: 200 bucks each on average. They don’t lose value unless they’re at the end of their lifespan or damaged. Expect a scratched up, paint peeled tank to go for almost the same as a brand new one. May as well buy new. Get two.
Regulator set: Varies with make and model. 200- 1500 bucks with a basic console. Double that if it’s got a computer console.
Dive computer: Pretty well indispensable these days. Everyone should be diving with one. 400 bucks and up. I’ve seen one for 23 grand.
Dive knife or shears: Not a weapon. These are tools to get you out of fishing line, nets or electrical cables. Buy the best you can afford. 90 bucks and up. In knives I prefer blunt tip as opposed to pointy tip. It can be used to pry with and not break. It’s also a little safer. Some divers have poked holes in themselves let alone their wet suits.
Dive light(s): You’ll want at least one. Two if you’re even considering wreck or cavern diving. 130 bucks and up for your primary and 70 and up for your back up.
Wreck/Cave reel: 50-100 m length. Anywhere from 100-250 bucks.
A watch that can take a dive: This is your back up timer in case your primary timer or dive computer fails. I use a Timex Ironman looped on a D ring. Cost me 40 bucks and haven’t killed it yet, even on a dive to 170 feet that was beyond it’s stated limit.
A second exposure suit: Think you’ll only dive in one place or just in one season? Think again. You’ll want something you can use in the Carib and you’ll want something you can use at home.
A save a dive kit: About 40 bucks. These kits contain little items like tank O rings, fin straps, mask straps, nylon ties etc. Have one of these and you’ll rarely have to abort a dive because something small broke. That tank O ring ( 40 cent part) is the difference between you diving and you not diving. Sucks being 5 miles offshore and the only thing stopping you diving that reef is a 40 cent part after paying 70 bucks for the charter boat.
A Gear bag: A 50 dollar hockey bag (preferably on wheels) or a full blown dive case like those made by Armour @ 250 bucks and up.
There’s more but that’s an average gear kit for a responsible diver.
Like anything you buy, shop around. If there are a couple of dive shops in your area they will often have specials on their training courses to drum up business.
Expect to pay between 200-300 dollars for an open water certification as a rule. Yup…there’s a 100 dollar difference sometimes simply because those dive shops are competing for your dollar.
If there’s only one dive shop in your area, prices are usually fixed in the 250- 300 dollar range. They don’t have competition.
As for gear, it can range considerably. Much depends on what sort of diving you’ll do. A cold water diver spends more on gear than a warm water one. Suits cost more, regulators cost more, hoods and gloves are an extra expense to name just some. Check into each dive shop. You’ll find that many offer used gear that they either used for training or it’s club member gear that’s up for consignment. You can often get good deals on it and since it’s from a dive shop, it will have been inspected and serviced before sale. Buying online is an option, yes, but you never know what you’ll actually get. It may cost you more in repairs to get it ready to dive than you saved by buying online. Don’t forget…much of this gear is meant to keep you alive. It’s not something you go cheap on so buy the best you can afford.
Some stuff you want new, not used. You’ll need to buy your own mask fins and snorkel. You can’t even start the course without it. This stuff needs to fit YOU..not somebody else so try on as many different masks and fins as you can before purchase. Like everything else in scuba gear, if it doesn’t fit properly, it’s no good to you and can even be possibly hazardous.
So, let’s break it down with what you need as a bare bones dive kit.
Mask: 80-150 bucks
Snorkel: 30-80 bucks
Fins: 90-300 bucks
Exposure protection: ( your wet suit) can range from 100-750 bucks depending on if it’s used and it’s thickness and features. You could always rent a suit but that’s up to you. There’s an old saying amongst divers. " Show me someone that says they haven’t peed in their suit and I’ll show you a liar." When ya gotta go…ya gotta go. Someone will probably have peed in that suit if it’s used or rented. Your choice. Eventually you will do it too.
That’s it. Everything else you can rent once you’re certified.
If you wanted to own it all then this is what you’re looking at in addition to the above:
Lead weight: Varies and depends if it’s a soft pouch or belted lead. 40-200 bucks
BC: The sky’s the limit. 200 bucks to 2 grand.
Hood: 40 bucks
Gloves: 40 bucks
Alum 80 tank: 200 bucks each on average. They don’t lose value unless they’re at the end of their lifespan or damaged. Expect a scratched up, paint peeled tank to go for almost the same as a brand new one. May as well buy new. Get two.
Regulator set: Varies with make and model. 200- 1500 bucks with a basic console. Double that if it’s got a computer console.
Dive computer: Pretty well indispensable these days. Everyone should be diving with one. 400 bucks and up. I’ve seen one for 23 grand.
Dive knife or shears: Not a weapon. These are tools to get you out of fishing line, nets or electrical cables. Buy the best you can afford. 90 bucks and up. In knives I prefer blunt tip as opposed to pointy tip. It can be used to pry with and not break. It’s also a little safer. Some divers have poked holes in themselves let alone their wet suits.
Dive light(s): You’ll want at least one. Two if you’re even considering wreck or cavern diving. 130 bucks and up for your primary and 70 and up for your back up.
Wreck/Cave reel: 50-100 m length. Anywhere from 100-250 bucks.
A watch that can take a dive: This is your back up timer in case your primary timer or dive computer fails. I use a Timex Ironman looped on a D ring. Cost me 40 bucks and haven’t killed it yet, even on a dive to 170 feet that was beyond it’s stated limit.
A second exposure suit: Think you’ll only dive in one place or just in one season? Think again. You’ll want something you can use in the Carib and you’ll want something you can use at home.
A save a dive kit: About 40 bucks. These kits contain little items like tank O rings, fin straps, mask straps, nylon ties etc. Have one of these and you’ll rarely have to abort a dive because something small broke. That tank O ring ( 40 cent part) is the difference between you diving and you not diving. Sucks being 5 miles offshore and the only thing stopping you diving that reef is a 40 cent part after paying 70 bucks for the charter boat.
A Gear bag: A 50 dollar hockey bag (preferably on wheels) or a full blown dive case like those made by Armour @ 250 bucks and up.
There’s more but that’s an average gear kit for a responsible diver.
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